Waterbug Setup

So after a small sump overflow recently, I decided to get a Waterbug 200 to hook up to my Apex.  In order to set this up, I had to set up a breakout box (I used this design - http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1847474) and finally figure out how to set up the Waterbug itself.  The Waterbug consists of three parts, the power adapter, the controller, and the water sensor.  So a couple of initial thoughts about this.  First of all, the documentation is pretty much non-existant.  I'm not an electronics guru, but I can follow instructions pretty good...problem is, this device was made for integration with a home alarm system and not a aquarium monitor so the documentation is written to a different target audience.  By researching RC, I was able to find the information that I needed and the important information can be seen in the two pictures below:
First of all, this pic shows the various parts connected to the controller:

The black wire on the right side is the connection wire to my DIY breakout box.  I opted for the design that allowed for quick connect/disconnect vs. the Neptune Systems breakout box that just used bare wires.Simply personal preference.
This pic shows a close up of the terminal block on the Waterbug controller:

The power adapter that they recommend that you purchase needs to have the end clipped off of it and the two wires stripped.  Then these are connected into the V+ and GND terminals.  The V+ being the positive and the GND being the negative.  The positive wire typically has a white stripe and printing on it.  You can see the printing in the picture, but not the white stripe.  Next is the water detection probe itself.  It just needs to be connected to the S terminals.  Since the probe just completes a circuit, it does not matter what color goes on what terminal.  I put the black wire on the left S terminal and the red wire on the right.  Finally, the connection to the breakout box.  The three connectors here are specific to whether you're detecting presence of water or presence of no water (i.e. probe normally in water).  The NO means Normally Open which means there is no water to connect the circuit and NC means normally closed which means there usually is water to connect the circuit.  The C is where one of the wires will go in either case.  Again, because these two wires are just completing a circuit, I don't believe it matters which wire you have on which side, just that you have the appropriate terminal selection for NO or NC.  I have the bare wire in the C and the insulated wire in the NO.
Anyway, I know this isn't a post that has wide application as not many will monitor for this, but I hope that it saves somebody time should they decide to hook one up (or helps me remember what wire goes where if I ever have to move my setup!).
--AJ

 

Less expensive than a wife?  For sure!!  hahah  /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/hehe.gif  Speaking of expense, I think that I have around $90 in it when considering the supplies to build the breakout box and the cost of the Waterbug, AC adapter (sold separately) and shipping.
--AJ

 

For detecting low water and high water, you want to use float valves....not this. You would use one of these to tell you when there is water on the floor like from a loose bulkhead or a sump overflow. Both the float valves and the Waterbug require that you have a breakout box.

--AJ