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Sump Design Resources

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by AJ, Jun 11, 2009.

  1. AJ

    AJ Inactive User

    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    Anyone have a list of good resources for reviewing when designing a sump?  I have some ideas on what I want to do, but I would like to review some other recommendations so that I don't have a bunch of design regrets later.  I've read some threads on RC and a number of other sites, but nothing that's very comprehensive.
    I would also love to hear from any of you that think that you did a really nice job on designing your sump and the design decisions that you're glad that you made.  Pics would be helpful too.
    In case it matters, my goals for my sump are to have a refugium area, a small area for LR and macro algae.  The skimmer could go internal or external (driven by a mag 12 if that makes a difference) and the return pump will be external.  There would also need to be a place for various probes (temp, pH, etc), ATO float switches, heaters and utility pumps that would push water to media reactors.  Pretty standard stuff.  I do plan on drilling the tank (which is a 75 gallon tank).
    Thanks!
    --AJ
     
  2. Eric Experienced Reefkeeper

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +33 / 0 / -0
    I'll toss some of this in the Wiki as well, from http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html

    How does a sump work???
    A sump gives you greater control over your reef or fish-only display tank. The benefits far exceed the risks, and thus most successful aquariums you'll see utilize a sump. Some even incorporate a refugium as well. Here are the numerous benefits derived from incorporating a sump into your current setup:


    • Increased total water volume - This dilutes your water of accumulating pollutants, and helps avoid issues that occur quickly in sumpless tanks.
    • Skims the surface - No more surface scum, just crystal clear water.
    • Lowers temperature - I've observed a 2° F drop after the sump is installed.
    • Hides equipment - Heaters, protein skimmers, monitoring probes, grounding probes and more can be moved to the sump & out of the display tank.
    • Consistent water level - The display tank will maintain the same water level all the times; evaporation occurs in the sump over time (see auto top-off).
    • Safe place to pour in additives - Adding chemicals or new (Reverse Osmosis De-Ionized) water in the sump allows it to mix before entering the display tank.
    • Increased circulation - The return water from the sump is yet another way to move water in your tank. You can point the return outlet(s) in different directions to create flow, instead of putting more powerheads in your display tank!
    • Increased oxygenation - As water drains into your sump, air mixes in the water, allowing beneficial gas exchange, releasing CO2 and adding fresh O2.
    Optional Features:

    • Automatic top-off device - Install an automatic float switch to add new water, as needed, from a nearby holding tank to keep your system filled up. closed loop system.







      [​IMG]

      Noteworthy Points:
      Green Light: Return pump ON
    • Water rises to tank
    • Return area lowers
    • Display fills higher
    • Overflow fills
    • Overflow drains to sump
    • Sump fills

      Red Light: Return pump OFF
    • Residual water in plumbing drains
      down
    • Drilled hole in return line
      breaks siphon
    • Water in sump and refugium
      rises
    • Siphon is maintained in
      the overflow box
    • Sump is tall enough to hold
      excess water



      How does a weir, or overflow box like the above work?

      The way it works is that there is a baffle on the inside and one on the outside, to keep the 'bubble' of water trapped in that center zone (the inverted U) until flow is restored. If it has a leak, air will bleed in and water will go out, and the siphon is lost. So it has to be tested with water after it has been built. Take it to the sink, thread or snake in a piece of airline tubing into that chamber, and while water is filling the inner box, you suck out the air with your mouth on the end of the tubing. Then you watch it closely, to see if any airbubbles start bubbling up inside that chamber. If you see none, it is perfect. See this page for info about Durso Standpipe or Stockman Mod. Many discussions about these silencers can be found using the Search option on ReefCentral.com

      How do I determine what return pump I need?

      To establish flow rates, you have to get a pump that will match how fast the drain will flow. I have a 1" drain on mine, and because there is no volume of pressure over that drain (or bulkhead), my maximum flow rate is 300gph. If the bulkhead were at the base of the tank, and I had gallons of water pressing down due to gravity, it might drain as much as 600 gph. But that is not the case. In the outer box of the weir, there is maybe a pint of water, so it goes more slowly. You want to find a return pump that will match your drainline, but you also have to figure head pressure as well. How far does the pump have to push water back up to the top of the tank to refill it? The submersible pump in the sump under my 29g has to push water straight up 5 feet. So a Mag 5 at 5' pumps 300gph. A perfect match!

      Here's a chart of Mag pumps and head pressures: Charts for Mag drive application
      Courtesy ReefCentral.com, here is a head loss calculator






      [​IMG]




      This picture displays the return plumbing, including an additional horizontal valve feeding water to a refugium. The vertical section has a valve to bleed off excess water back into the sump. Everything you want to know about sumps - Part I
      Everything you want to know about sumps - Part II
      Everything you want to know about sumps - Part III

      I hope this helps you understand how a sump works, and how you can design one to your specific needs.

      12-12-2003 - How to design your sump yourself. Questions answered, details explained, and general comments.
     

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