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RODI

Discussion in 'General (Hobby Related)' started by -=kevin=-, Nov 10, 2007.

  1. -=kevin=-

    -=kevin=- Inactive User

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    I finally put some of that DI resin,from the bulk buy, in.  I was puting out 50-60 ppm TDS! I'm waiting for the DI canister to fill so I can check and make sure TDS goes down to 0.  Is there a way to check the membrane?  I should replace my prefilters too, but I'm getting a pretty good stream of waste water so I don't think they are clogged, just seems like production is way down. Ideas?
    thanks,
    kevin
     
  2. -=kevin=-

    -=kevin=- Inactive User

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    [​IMG]  good news.  TDS is 000! and out put is back up to normal. 
    Thanks,
    kevin
     
  3. BGreenlee

    BGreenlee Inactive User

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    Incoming water pressure is generally the biggest reason water production suffers. I bought the booster pump setup from the filter guys and it has made a huge difference in my water production, and the life of my DI resin. My tds after the RO went from around 28 to around 15 by bumping the pressure from the cities 42psi to 94psi. The other big production killer is temperature. I have not figured a good way to bring my incoming water temperature up to the mid 70's yet, but am still thinking about it.
     
  4. matt the fiddler

    matt the fiddler Well-Known ReefKeeper

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    my landlord has a HUGE booser pump in the basement.. i love it /site/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/_default/emoticons/smile.gif

    the toilet fills fast too!
     
  5. Guest

    Guest Guest

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    I hope you mean the tank, with water, and not the bowl, with...
     
  6. Lee

    Lee Experienced Reefkeeper

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    Posted By BGreenlee on 11/10/2007 10:55 PM
    Incoming water pressure is generally the biggest reason water production suffers. I bought the booster pump setup from the filter guys and it has made a huge difference in my water production, and the life of my DI resin. My tds after the RO went from around 28 to around 15 by bumping the pressure from the cities 42psi to 94psi. The other big production killer is temperature. I have not figured a good way to bring my incoming water temperature up to the mid 70's yet, but am still thinking about it.
    Have you seen Melevs method of heating the incoming water?  He coils a 25-50ft long tube in a 5g bucket with a small heater in it before it reaches the filter.
     
  7. BGreenlee

    BGreenlee Inactive User

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    Thanks Lee, thats a good idea. I had not seen that, which is odd as I have spent a ton of time on Marc's site.
    I will let you all know how it works out for me, I have a 100' coil of 1/4 tubing to do this with. I will run water as is till it stabilizes and then add the tubing and heater and see what I get.
    Sorry for the hijack Kevin.
     
  8. -=kevin=-

    -=kevin=- Inactive User

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    np. I'm learning all the time. Good ideas.
     
  9. seanndenise1

    seanndenise1 Inactive User

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    Posted By ryansholl on 11/11/2007 12:22 AM
    I hope you mean the tank, with water, and not the bowl, with...
    hahahaha
    hillarious
     
  10. Travis

    Travis Well-Known ReefKeeper

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    Kevin,

    To check the membrane you can pull the line off right after the membrane and test the tds at that point. You want it below 15 tds. You can also tell if your membrane is clogged if you notice a large drop in good water production. Take the listed output of your membrane and divide it by 24. Let it run for an hour and see how close you are to the optimum predicted output. Obviously it will be lower due to low pressure and temp, but you should still be in the ball park. When my membrane crapped out I actually went from 4-5 gallons per hour to 2.
     

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