RO/DI Help

I could come look at it some-time. Looks just like mine.

 

do you have the little piece of plastic inside the waste line that ups the available pressure so it can run at 150gpd?? there should be a small piece of plastic inserted in the waste line otherwise all the water goes to the waste and not to the product line.

 

I'd get rid of that valve on your exit line and get a booster for the water supply. I can't imagine a valve on the outlet of the rodi helps performance, just hurts it.
Yes that's color changing DI resin. Orange means it's used up, and blue is still good. I would just keep an eye on your TDS meter tho. My DI resin might change orange, but if my TDS meter still reads zero, I wouldnt change it until it starts kicking out water that's anything more than zero TDS

 

Don't think that valve should be on your exit line. That looks like the valve that is normally used in conjunction with a quick flush system. Have you already checked to see if there's a product manual on the manufacturer website?

 

To check for that piece u new to pull the waste line off of the ro membrane and it should be inside the tube at that end. If its not there that is your problem. And bulk reef sells that specific part.

 

Never mine i rewrote my post.
Check for the restrictor. It must match the units membrane. They are normally color coordinated for use with a Membranes GPH rating. The Restrictor backs up the flow of  wast water so that more water will go thru membrane and be filtered. If it was lost or not in there you may have an external inline quick connect one too.  This might be the piece in your picture that's on your feed line with the Red quick connect fitting end. Also Membranes need at least 60psi to be use efficiency . You can buy Booster pumps to help up this PSI. Remember that colder water and or hotter water will deplete your membranes efficiency  also. At good water temp is around 68 degrees I think.
 This site helped me and should you also..
http://www.airwaterice.com/category/z.9/#q4
Hope this all helps or you get someone over there that might help.. It can be a pain if your unsure of what to do the first time.
Is this basically how you have yours hooked up? Look for restrictor like in Picture. I am going off of memory so I hope this works.. lol

 

A booster pump increases the pressure which would increase the efficiency of your rodi. If you don't, all it does is create more waste water and less rodi water. It's really your choice. I put one on mine and it made a HUGE DIFFERENCE

 

You need more pressure. 50psi is not enough to drive the unit.

You could buy a booster pump. For great info check out the Bulk Reef Supply TV videos. There are several of them regarding RO/DI and also booster pumps.

 

PotRoast your right Bulk reef supply has some great videos..

 

isn't there a booster pump for sale in the buy/sell members section? maybe its gone now

 

That stinks man, but been there done that. If you go the booster pump route, you will be pleased at how much better your ro/di will work with a little more pressure. Happy Reefing

 

Do you know if the unit came with a flush kit installed? It would be a small ball valve near the RO stage. If this is open it will flush the ro membrane not allowing water to go over to the DI stage, therefore not produing any ro/di water and only producing waste water.

 

And, I dont think pressure is the issue. I have less pressure than that at the moment and am able to produce water just fine.

 

Definitely sounds like the valve is open and you are flushing the membrane. I would leave the valve in place and use it as BRS suggest but make sure that it is closed when you want to make RO.

 

I produce water just fine as well when I had 40 psi running into it. Your membrane and filters last longer and the waste to rodi ratio is better when you run your inlet psi at 60-70. Of course it's not the culprit, but to make your rodi last, it's recommended to run it at a higher psi like 60-70

 

Trust me, I know what your saying.  But the question is how to get his RO/DI working at all, not getting it to be more efficient and last longer.  The op can deal with that after getting it working.