RO/DI died

Posted By knoxvilleia on 12/12/2007 1:48 PM
well my ro di took a dump some time in the last day or so.
I learned some new stuff from the filter guys, and thought i would post my issues for a second oppinion.
well I found I had no output,  My first thought was the diaphram auto shut of valve on the di unit.
so I called the filter guys  and here is what i have come up with.
1.  my water bills have been high latley, I thought  the auto shut off valve shut the compleate system off I learned it only shuts the dump water off and if the pressure is under 40 or so it will not shut off ever. I think I Have been dumping water 24-7 for a while now as knoxville has low water pressure.
2. Low water pressure can cause a membrane to fail.
3. citys are using some stuff now in the water purification process that has been causing a lot of filter plugs
4. I did have a carbon block filter pluged/ noticed failure internal as it was bulged.
I run  in this order 
5 MICRON POLY SEDIMENT FILTER / 1 MICRON POLY SEDIMENT FILTER  / MATRIKX +1 CARBON BLOCK FILTER CHLORINE GUZZLER  / MATRIKX +1 CARBON BLOCK FILTER CHLORINE GUZZLER  / 75 GPD FILMTEC RO MEMBRANE / NON COLOR CHANGING NUCLEAR GRADE DI RESIN / NON COLOR CHANGING NUCLEAR GRADE DI RESIN
I am going to replace the membrane, and add a booster pump,
I think my water savings will pay for the booster pump, and I think everything will last longer/ work better.
I had been puting this off as I did not want to spend the cash to get a booster pump. I now feel it has actually cost me   I think it was Ein that said he added one because the membrane's only work at rated eff when under correct pressure. and thought it would make his di resin last longer.
wish I had a gallons used meter so i could of compared.  but will post if I feel my di lasts longer and my water bills go down a little.The filter guys are the authority on these systems in my opinion and experience.
I dont regret purchasing the booster pump it made a huge difference in my water production for sure. When you get the booster pump you will need a sediment filter in front of it. You will want to order that when you order the booster pump. The amount of water production I have after the addition is awesome.  

 

You can also increase efficiency by sending optimum temperature water through the membrane also. You can just hook a hose splitterup to your hot and cold water outlets, set the resultant mix to the temp your membrane suggests.

 

be aware, sometimes there is a pressure differance between hot and cold and one can flow into the other. I have found such splitters on deep sinks in janator closets and it can make the next faucet down the line get cold instead of hot or vice versa. /site/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/_default/emoticons/wink.gif

What is optimum temperature? I was thinking if running my supply water through 50 ft of tubing before the first filter, so it would be room temp.

 

Melev has posted on his site somewhere the way he does it. I think he has like 100-200 ft. (can't remember exactly) of RO tubing before the RO unit coiled up in a bucket of water with a heater in it that way it is optimum temp. when it hits the filters.

 

I actually had my plumber put in a dedicated faucet up by the ceiling that is tied to the main Hot and Cold lines....I have the RO/DI feed line attached to that, so I just adjust water temp with the hot and cold knobs.

works very well...

eins