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Recharging DI Resin

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by AJ, Apr 29, 2010.

  1. AJ

    AJ Inactive User

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    Hey Bill, though of you when I was reading this article because a while back, you mentioned how fast you consume DI Resin.  Anyway, check this out.  It's a process for recharging your DI resin using lye and muratic acid.
    http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-09/nftt/index.php
    --AJ
     
  2. FishBrain Expert Reefkeeper

    New London
    Ratings:
    +399 / 6 / -0
    Sweet! Thanks for shareing I will be trying this out sometime down the road.
     
  3. Bela

    Bela Inactive User

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    This is really cool. I have always heard that this cannot be done! I wonder what this would do to color changing resin?
    EDIT: Looks like it kills the color change portion after a while (last paragraph, go figure LOL). Now I just need to collect enough resin from people who are just throwing it all away to try this out /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/wink.gif
     
  4. AJ

    AJ Inactive User

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    Yeah, if you're going to do this, you will need to monitor your TDS on your own...a good argument for an inline TDS meter.

    --AJ
     
  5. Bela

    Bela Inactive User

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    Any idea if it makes the resin "as good as new" or will you eventually have to get rid of the resin?
     
  6. Kungpaoshizi Well-Known ReefKeeper

    561
    davenport
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    +39 / 1 / -0
    Well it all comes down to a molecular charge moving back and forth, so I would think it may react like a battery?
    I dunno I'm guessin lol could be purely chemical though perhaps? (possibility of no degradation over time of medium/action)
    I was thinking about that the other day when I saw the article /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/hybrid//emoticons/smile.gif
     
  7. Bela

    Bela Inactive User

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    I think you are right Kungpao. My question was more directed towards whether or not there is near 100% efficiency going on here. Are the acids removing all of the ionic (I think that is what they would be to be attracted to the resin) compounds, or is it just removing part of them. The only reason I ask is because it would be nice to know at which point you are spending more money on the acid, lye, and of course your time, than what you save by trying this method. The article does mention two years of use, but that depends too on how much RO water is being produced in between "washings" of the resin. I have almost had my resin a year and a half and it is only half spent, mainly because it was taking care of a 10g tank for the majority of that time.
     
  8. Kungpaoshizi Well-Known ReefKeeper

    561
    davenport
    Ratings:
    +39 / 1 / -0
    Here's some interesting stuff I've dug up... looks like increasing silicates might play a role after multiple recharges?
    Found some interesting stuff here~ (http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic26590-13-5.aspx)
    I'll have to see about that german resin... will post more later /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default//emoticons/smile.gif

     
  9. Kungpaoshizi Well-Known ReefKeeper

    561
    davenport
    Ratings:
    +39 / 1 / -0
    nm, looks like a glorified API tap water unit....
    http://www.thefilterguys.biz/kati_ani_di-onizer.htm
     
  10. Guest

    Guest Guest

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    When using separate bed cartridges, you'll want a ratio of about 1.5 anion resin to 1.0 cation resin.

    Russ
     

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