QT tank question

Justin, you've been to my house a few times (probably more than you would have cared for, oh and yes, I finally have the LEDs up.)

You saw my modest QT setup. When I had a tank many years ago, I didn't QT anything. A freshwater dip, and in they went. OK. Not quite like that, but close. That was my only "disease prevention" I used. In the course of several years, we didn't lose a single fish to disease and they was all night and plump, no lateral line issues for those fish that can get that, no ich, no visible parasites.

Were the fish disease free? Heck no. I didn't know better at the time though. The fish can house many difference parasites or diseases, as they do in the wild, and as long as they are fairly healthy otherwise, fed well, and have low stress, you may never see anything come up, like I didn't. But change one of those parameters... Lacking in food that the fish like and eat, add some "straw that broke the camels back" type of stress (new fish, stray voltage, whatever), and bam, you can have an outbreak because the fish can no longer naturally hold the parasites or disease at bay.

I learned a LOT while at the GIRS Fall Fest from 'Copps' about the whole QT process when he did his big presentation. I was sold on its value.

As others have mentioned, my continued research into the topic has yielded several different ways to go about it. From one tank to multiple tanks and doing "tank-transfers" to try to naturally keep things like ich at bay by trying to kill it off when combined with low salinity.

Some medicate all fish with Prazipro for two weeks (two different dosings) and then follow up with Cupramine every time.

Some just do Prazipro and look for signs of anything else before dosing any copper med.

Some don't dose at all and just observe and only dose what is needed based off of symptoms.

Some QT for a week, others a month, and some 6 weeks or more.

There is quite a variety of options.

For me, and I am NOT saying that this is the only way or best way or anything. I have one QT tank, using a sponge filter end of an air "stone" and sponges in a HOB filter where those sponges spent a couple of weeks getting seeded with bacteria in my sump of my DT, a small heater, an additional small powerhead, and some PVC pipe for hiding places. I use DT water in the QT, and acclimate the new arrival for about an hour to the QT using a slow drip method. I let the new fish get used to the tank for a couple of days and only try to feed them. I use a turkey baster to suck out any food/poop that settles on the bottom to make sure not to over-tax the filters. I do that after every feeding. Once the fish is eating, I treat with Prazipro. I put in half of the dosage and wait about an hour and put in the other half. More to ease the fish into it, but still provide enough "umph" to go to work. I do the full 1 week treatment, then do a 50% water change, wait a day, and do another 50% water change, and then do a 2nd week of Prazipro. At the end of week 2 of treatment, do the same 50% water change and really start looking for signs of ich or other health issues.

If nothing else comes up, then I do another 50% water change the following day and just keep up on regular water changes for the final 2 weeks. Total time in the QT for me is about 4 weeks. Other do longer and can argue what they like, this is just where I settled at. Obviously, if ich starts showing up, then there is the Cupramine treatment (Cupramine is about the easiest on the fish as you can get for a copper treatment) and follow the instructions there.

So far, I have not had to do any copper treatment, and my fish are doing well.

So, will you keep every fish alive and well because of a QT?

Heck no. Too many variables. They need to eat, they may already have something "kicking their butt" and not be able to overcome it, etc.

For me, I had an "equipment failure" that caused my Auriga Butterfly to die about 3 days in QT. He was just starting to eat, but what I didn't realize is that the QT was having an ammonia spike. I bought one of those "Ammonia Alerts" that has the color wheel and yellow dot that changes when ammonia is present. Well, it never changed from the Yellow dot, so everything seemed fine. Previously I was doing water checks after the first 3 days and was relying too much on this Ammonia Alert.

Lesson learned. The alert must be defective since others swear by them, but I will never rely on one again. I will test water daily initially and then every 2-3 days once things are verified to have settled down. I will also make sure that my QT tank is up and running for a couple of days before adding fish. Even with DT water and the sponges, it was like it was doing a mini-cycle because I wiped out and rinsed the tank down (not the sponges obviously) and then with the fish load being added, it was trouble.

So there you have it. Way more information about the QT process, or at least one of the options for it.

I hope that this adds some constructive information to this thread in case it gets locked down. There are people that eagerly look to "roast" someone else from time to time. I got "called out" in one of those other threads by someone who basically accused me of doing something and then they did the same. It happens. I don't know that guy (gal?) very well, but so be it. I'm holding no grudges. There are just antagonists in the world, always will be. Lets just all try to keep things on-topic. I know that by the other person mention above saying what they did, I kept things on-topic ever since. And even THIS is on topic, because it is honest, and good advice about the "2nd topic" in this thread.

Hmm, I wonder if I will get slammed for my last paragraph.

 

Good points.

Yes. You *can* get by with rinsing off the old sponge filter and reseeding it if you don't use any meds in the QT. I've also heard that you can be OK if you just used PraziPro, but the second you use a copper based product, you will need to throw out those sponges and seed brand new ones.

Oh, and yes, you don't need to keep the QT up and running all of the time, just plan ahead though so you don't get a mini-cycle in the QT.

 

Since this thread has 289 views I'll chime in and say

HELL YES FOR QT!

My setup is in storage until I need it. It is a 55 gallon tank, T5 lights, a Koralia powerhead, heater, and HOT Magnum canister filter with a sponge that has been soaking 24/7 in my sump. The sponge will provide adequate bacteria for the QT setup. I also have a second HOT Magnum that runs carbon as needed.

I add 3" PVC elbows and T's for hiding spots for the fish.

I have some cuperimine (copper ich treatment) on hand if needed, but I don't use it unless I have too. What else?

The reason to QT is simply to give your new fish a chance. You can put it in your QT tank, watch it, feed it, build its strength back up after its hellish journey from wherever it came to get to your tank. I QT for 4-6 weeks or until it is absolutely obvious the fish is ready for the display tank.

Why do I wait so long to move the fish? My display tank is a harsh environment.......there are established fish that don't like any newcomers, violent water movement from 4 vortechs, bright lights, etc. When I add my new fish I want to make sure it can survive in there. I dump it in at night and hope for the best.

 

No sand, use the bare bottom. The sand will just be another source of die off potentially, or more likely will just trap uneaten food and fish poop. Keep the setup simple, man....
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QT is the way to go. I would also add that if you do use a copper to treat for Ich, do not use that tank or any of the equipment (heaters, filters, tant, etc) in your DT or QT inverts in that same set up. From what I understand there will be residual copper traces even after cleaning that can be enough to poison the item. If this was stated previously I apologize for being redundant. I have 1 QT setup for using copper and another for items that can't be exposed to it. When not needed they just sit empty, pissing off my wife. /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default//emoticons/smile.gif I treat all new fish with cupramine just in case they are carrying and don't get stressed enough to show signs of infestation. Some would argue against that but it is what works for me. Good luck.

 

Some argue it both ways. There are advantages to quarantining everything, however the problem is that you can't quarantine inverts in the same setup that you would quarantine fish due to the inverts not doing well (as in they can be killed) from exposure to even equipment exposed to treatments like copper.
Personally, I acclimate then really slowly, way slower than fish since they are extra sensitive to water parameter differences, and then I put them in my tank. I only have one shrimp and a variety of snails, but they are all doing well.
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have you researched freshwater dips? or hypo salinity? those are other alternatives to harsh copper

 

This IMO is the best advice offered yet. Maybe some are confusing a hospital tank with a QT. Totally different. I definitely QT after losing an entire tank to velvet, but to talk about treatment options right off the bat, unless you bought an obviously sick fish, is not necessary.

 

Very good responses guys!/DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/biggrin.gif QT'ing also allows the fish to get used to you, the activity in the room, things like that Justin. Lighting is an important factor also. When releasing the fish into the tank, it is advised to have the lights off. I slowly acclimate my new fish to light...if I purchase the fish at a store, I make note of the lighting it has been under MH's, T-5, LED...was the tank bright or dimmer (more blues)- If I order a fish, it has been without light for a LONG time... I have no set methodology to acclimating the fish to my lighting, I just Very Slowly increase the photoperiod and intensity...of course looking for any possible negative reaction by the fish.


I had an experience once when I released a new fish coming out of QT and going in to my DT. To say the least, an established fish zero'd in on the newcomer and within seconds, the newcomer was slammed up against the tank side/DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/mad.gif I was able to retrieve the fish and returned it to the QT tank but it didn't survive/DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/crying.gif I believe it's air bladder was damaged. So to say the least, I now use a (large) "Reef Gently" whenever adding a new fish to any of my established tanks. I see this as my final step for the QT process. After weeks in QT , the Reef Gently allows all the fish to get use to each other and should the new/QT'd fish appear unduly stressed, it remains there for a time and should it be necessary, I can easily return to the QT tank./DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default/emoticons/smile.gif

 

I hear alot of people stating they don't like this club..... Just remember we"the members" make this club what it is..There are alot of people in this Club that see these threads and also want to learn about the topic as they too may have the same issue.. but when the thread goes south real fast...No one learns from that...