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Nitrates in a 29g Biocube

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by CognitiveItch, Jan 22, 2012.

  1. CognitiveItch

    CognitiveItch

    12
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    The nitrates in my biocube seem to be creeping up to a range I don't like.  Directly following the 3.5g water change I did this afternoon I retested the water and it still tested at around 20-40ppm.  I haven't done much to modify the back chambers of the cube besides ditching the filter cartridge it came with (clogged quickly and are expensive to replace) and putting in the oceanic biocube skimmer (not ideal, I know).  I have read mixed reviews about the bioballs, decided to stick with them a bit and see how it goes.  Any recommendations on anything fairly cheap and effective in terms of modifying the chambers in the back of the tank?  Not really interested in a full refugium at this point (don't have the space).  I'd like to eventually get into the reef aspect of the tank, so I'd like to get a handle on the nitrates.
     
  2. blackx-runner Administrator Website Team Leadership Team

    Cedar Rapids, IA
    Ratings:
    +738 / 5 / -0
    How often are you doing water changes? I think some people run cheato in one of the chamers to help export nutrients. Also Check out some of the options for In Tank media baskets. Might be worth ditching the bio ball setup to go with a little better filter/nutrient export option.
    http://shop.mediabaskets.com/BioCube-29_c16.htm
     
  3. Foo

    Foo Well-Known ReefKeeper

    524
    Ratings:
    +4 / 0 / -0
    Are you running RO/DI for top-off/exchanges? Check your filters/tds readings. Also, I would bump the water change schedule up and change a least 5 gallons per. Don't overfeed and rinse all frozen food before adding to your tank. If all else fails you could use a carbon source to bring them down. Bio-pellets or vodka ect. But i would find your source of the problem and correct first.
     
  4. Sponge Expert Reefkeeper Vendor

    Marshalltown, IA
    Ratings:
    +233 / 1 / -0
    Great input Foo ;-0) As he said, I would also suggest larger WC's. It is very difficult to reduce nitrates simply by WC's especially when trates are being added to the tank at a higher rate than what is exported. Bioballs are a nitrate factory so getting rid of them will help. I would suggest not only doing the larger volume WC's, reduced feedings, rising frozen foods and using chaeto but also not carbon dosing. IMO, carbon dosing should be the last resort. Not having corals right now is helping you understand how your tank will respond to things like PO4 and NO3. Good luck!
     
  5. Kpotter2 Expert Reefkeeper

    North liberty, IA
    Ratings:
    +7 / 0 / -0
    PO4=Phosphate and PO3=Nitrates
    Great addition Sponge and Black
     
  6. Troy

    Troy Experienced Reefkeeper

    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    I am running the same size tank, and I do up to 10g water changes bi-weekly, and sometimes weekly depending on the test results. Also I have made a filter pad, out of egg create, that the water runs throw going from 1st chamber to the second. I would recommend investing in a better skimmer for when you go to corals. A tunze9002 or the CPR nano are both really good. You also could get some kind of reactor like the 2 Little Fishy or a BRS for GFO. I don't use the bioballs, like Sponge mentioned they are Nitrate factory, I personally would ditch them. Use some live rock in place of them.

    I have found that running the 29 biocube the parameters are quick to get out of control, so you just got to make sure that you stay on top of everything. Test, and WC accordingly is your best defense.

     
  7. CognitiveItch

    CognitiveItch

    12
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    When you say to rinse the frozen food, what are you trying to remove exactly from the food? I have been using purchased RO/DI salt water (and RO/DI fresh for top offs), but I haven't tested its parameters before adding it to the tank. I'm thinking I will remove the bioballs and add in some live rock and chaeto to the second chamber to try at first, and if that doesn't do the trick I'll upgrade to the media tray inserts and try chemipure and purigen. In addition to the resounding 'do bigger/more frequent water changes' of course /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default//emoticons/smile.gif I was going to try a simple mod I found for a chaeto light (scrape the vinyl off the back where the chaeto is and use a light I have on hand rather than getting a submergable/water safe light). When looking at the chaeto mods, it seems most people run the chaeto light on a reverse cycle, is this absolutely necessary?
     
  8. phishcrazee Experienced Reefkeeper

    Riverside
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    You don't have to alternate the light cycle, but its supposed to help lessen the pH swing between night and day.......
     
  9. Bud Loves Bacon Website Team Board of Directors Leadership Team GIRS Member Vendor

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +1,821 / 14 / -0
    IMO rinsing food depends on the food. If it's PE Mysis or brine shrimp, etc, then yes. If it's Rod's or Rogger's, then no, because it has coral food in it and you'll just rinse that away. I use DIY food and can't remember the last time I rinsed.
     
  10. Bennyboy515

    Bennyboy515

    77
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    One of those media baskets would be great with eheim effisubstrate. It is like 20 dollars a liter but has more surface area then anything else on the market. I wouldn't waste time clogging up pumps with cheato the chamber is not big enough. Also a two little fishes phosphate reactor with the modified screens from bulk reef supply or marine depot will turn this in to a bio pellet reactor for about 60 dollars for everything including bio balls. Unhook your return to the little fishes reactor and then plumb the return right back into the biocube return. And weekly water changes.
     

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