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ideas on setting up a basement sump????

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by snowman82, May 20, 2009.

  1. snowman82

    snowman82 Experienced Reefkeeper

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    well i am in the process of getting the design work for moving my sump to my basement.  I am in the works of getting a reeflo hammerhead.  i am aware of the minimum 15ft head i will be close to that if not a little over.  my tank size is a 125 and sump size is 55.  the help i am asking for is what should i look out for and what kind of valves will i need and so forth.  all future forsight will be greatly appreciated cause i just want to do this once.
    also with the flow i will have from the hammerhead what would be a good product to create a random flow or wave maker that isn't utterly expensive??
     
  2. Waverz

    Waverz Expert Reefkeeper

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    So to get this straight, you are trying to use the hammer head as a return and for water circulation in the display?

    What 15' minimum are you referring too?

    Why do you think you need that big of pump? Sure it's good to have lots of water circulation in the display, but to be honest you don;t really need much at all going through your sump. The slower it goes through your sump, the more time your water has a chance to go through the skimmer. If it were me, i would get a smaller pump and then get a separate pump for water circulation and do some sort of closed loop system.

    IMO random flow is cool, not really needed. If you really want to do it get ready to spend some cash.
     
  3. AJ

    AJ Inactive User

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    Hey snowman...I'm in the process of the same thing. One of the things that Jason Glaspie pointed out to me is the volume of water that can be in the pipes between the tank and the sump that you need to account for just in case of a power outage. This is especially the case if you are going anywhere except directly under the upstairs tank. For that reason, I'm going with a 75 gallon sump for my 90 gallon tank. Before I put the baffles in the sump, I'm going to play around with the water depths and stuff to figure out how much I need to account for while still maximizing the water volime. I'm still trying to figure out which pump to use....they're just so freakin' expensive... Look at the head calculator on reef central just to make sure that it's going to be as big as you need. I would love to hear more about the configuration that you finalize on.

    --AJ
     
  4. AJ

    AJ Inactive User

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    I believe he's referring to the minimum static head that pump is rated for.  Shut off head is 23'.
    --AJ
     
  5. snowman82

    snowman82 Experienced Reefkeeper

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    the only reason i'm going with the hammerhead is cause i found a good deal on one. I am mainly wanting to use as a return pump, but figured it could be used as both. under the specs for that pump it says there is a 15ft minimum. not really sure why though. I got powerheads already. the tank is setup and going and has been for a few months already, just realized i need more room and want to keep all that mess out of the way.

    apjohnson....thanks for bringing the point of the water in the pipes up. i had thought about that so i might have to use a 100g stock tank but thought maybe there was valver or something i could use haha. and the sump wont be setup directy under the tank either there will be some 90's in there. starting to think its a pain the butt. but i dont have room for an ATO or media reactor or calcium reactor if and when needed. grrr.
     
  6. adampottebaum

    adampottebaum Experienced Reefkeeper GIRS Member

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    Another tip is to drill the floor out to the size of a floor vent unless there's something else easier to do. This way if you ever move you can easily throw a floor vent on it and make it look like it's supposed to be there...
     
  7. AJ

    AJ Inactive User

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    Great tip.  The other alternative is to drill what you need, but make sure that they fall within the dimensions of your floor vent size (compare this to your other vents...they can be different from house to house), then when you move, cut the hole to the size of the vent and drop one in. 
    --AJ
     
  8. FishBrain Expert Reefkeeper GIRS Member

    New London
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    Posted By adampottebaum on 05/20/2009 07:15 PM
    Another tip is to drill the floor out to the size of a floor vent unless there's something else easier to do. This way if you ever move you can easily throw a floor vent on it and make it look like it's supposed to be there... ^ Genius simply genius![​IMG]
     
  9. slovan

    slovan Experienced Reefkeeper

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    If you want to do it once and do it right, get some good ball valves from Savko or US Plastic. The GF ball valves won't seize up on you and is easy to make minor adjustments. Put a valve on the input and output so that you can easily take it offline for cleaning. Your pump is a bit much but since you are getting a good deal, I guess you can make it work. :)
     
  10. Waverz

    Waverz Expert Reefkeeper

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    I am using a 30 gallon as a sump that is drilled near the top, that goes to a 100 gallon rubbermade which i use a refugium.

    It's a little more expensive, but i really suggest using flexible PVC, it makes the plumbing a breeze.

    Also listen to Sone, I have regular ball vlavles and they are a total ***** to fine tune, especially after a little coraline gets growing on them.
     
  11. slovan

    slovan Experienced Reefkeeper

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    I agree with Jeremy's idea on using flex hose. It's more forgiving and easier to work with. Something else to consider is adding another valve tee'd off the output. I did this for water changes and it worked really well.
    [​IMG]
     
  12. snowman82

    snowman82 Experienced Reefkeeper

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    so basically i need alot of unions, ballvalves, and tubing :) so to compensate for the water in the lines, how would you guys setup a sump system then? what size tanks and such? i have dual 1.5" over flows if that helps, id like to be able to still just use my 55 and modify it but maybe that can't be the case....
     
  13. slovan

    slovan Experienced Reefkeeper

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    You'll be happy you put in all the unions and ball valves after your tank is set up. It will make your life easier and allow you to change your setup without a lot of hassle.

    Your 55 should be fine for a sump, I had a 35 gallon sump for my 210. Just put a siphon break on your returns to keep a bunch of water from draining back into your sump.
     
  14. adampottebaum

    adampottebaum Experienced Reefkeeper GIRS Member

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    Or just get a one way check valve. It's super easy and almost 100% effective. That way you don't have to worry about any water flowing back to the sump from the pump's pipes. There will still be a little water come from the overflow in a power outage, but that's always going to happen.
     
  15. snowman82

    snowman82 Experienced Reefkeeper

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    i had thought about the check valve but how would that work on the intake side since no matter what the water is moving down? haha
     
  16. slovan

    slovan Experienced Reefkeeper

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    Maybe it's just me but I wouldn't put a check valve on my system, they are know for sticking.
     
  17. snowman82

    snowman82 Experienced Reefkeeper

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    well i am decideing to opt out of the hammerhead i think it will be way to much flow and my overflow wouldn't be able to keep up. by the way is there anyway to calculate what my overflow can handle?
     
  18. Guest

    Guest Guest

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    you can always T the output off and have part of the flow recirculate in the sump.
     
  19. AJ

    AJ Inactive User

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    Yeah, it sounds like that pump is just too big. It would probably be the aquarium equivalent of something like this...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUJRjNpV2Hc

    --AJ
     
  20. snowman82

    snowman82 Experienced Reefkeeper

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    yeah i just need to decide what size of pump i need.
     

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