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help please

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by fishyness, Aug 16, 2010.

  1. fishyness

    fishyness Inactive User

    596
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    +5 / 0 / -0
    2 weeks ago I had an order from Dr's. Delving into SPS for the first time. Now Im having a bad case of RTN in ALL of them. Whats up??? Ive tried to look it up and have found no answers.  My northwoods tri-colored valida is toast, so I broke the tops off the remaining (bases were turning white),, and hoping for the best. any clues?????
    SG 1.023
    temp-right now 82.4 halides are on
    ph 8.4
    dkh 10
    cal 420
    can check mag if needed[​IMG]
    thanks!
     
  2. FishBrain Expert Reefkeeper

    New London
    Ratings:
    +399 / 6 / -0
    Po4
     
  3. Bela

    Bela Inactive User

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    SG is also a tad on the low side IMO. What wattage halides are you running. Color temp? How close to the water?
     
  4. fishyness

    fishyness Inactive User

    596
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    Its a 75g 2x 150 halides, nitrates are 10, and I left out the biggy, using ick attack. Coralife lighting, med to high placement. P04 undetectable. Lighting schedule: actinics 11:00am-7:30 pm   halides 1:30 pm-5:30
    am I short changing them on the halides?
     
  5. Bela

    Bela Inactive User

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    Ugh... does ick attack have copper in it? I know most ick medications are devastating on a reef, even those that say reef safe. I would discontinue that immediately. I fyou are having problem with ick, treat your fish sepparately in a QT and let the tank fallow.
     
  6. Kylie

    Kylie Inactive User

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    One thing I have learned fishyness is that PO4 may read 0 but that doesn't mean its not there. All that hair algae you had would have been using up the PO4 before it could be measured by your tests.
     
  7. FishBrain Expert Reefkeeper

    New London
    Ratings:
    +399 / 6 / -0
    If you are useing a liquid test kit to test phosphate the results are worthless. For sps to thrive you need to get your po4 under 0.05 and keep it there. Your SG should be 1.025 to 1.026
     
  8. FishBrain Expert Reefkeeper

    New London
    Ratings:
    +399 / 6 / -0
    Also with only 150w bulbs I would run them a bit longer say 7 hours or so. As Bela said above that ick treatment is most likely the cause.
     
  9. fishyness

    fishyness Inactive User

    596
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    no copper in ich attack. This is my 75G Kylie, no HA in there. Will update tomorrow and thanks for the replies everybody. Will raise the SG s l o w ly.  Thanks! also will fill a media bag with phosguard.
    Thank you!
     
  10. Bela

    Bela Inactive User

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    I was reading what's in it. Frankly, I can't really find any success stories. As a general rule, from all the reading I have done, it is wise to just avoid ich medications in a reef tank all together. I would seriously consider discontinuing the use of it. Also, I haven;t seen it mentioned, but you should frag off the healthy tissue of your RTN pieces and get the RTN out of the tank ASAP too. As far as the lighting goes, you are probably fine. How high are the lights and what kind of reflectors?
     
  11. fishyness

    fishyness Inactive User

    596
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    Yes, thank you, I did frag off the healthy and just stuck it in the sand,  I know I really need to tear down the tank and maybe do hypo, Im scared of the copper at this point, I do have some,  darn, darn blue tang!! Really it's my fault, I dont QT. till now .....
     
  12. Bela

    Bela Inactive User

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    You shouldn't have to do hypo in the main tank. Just let it fallow (no fish for 6-8 weeks). Keep the fish in a QT and keep the display going as normal. Basically you kill off the ich by not letting it complete its life cycle. It will die off in that time with no fish in the tank.
     
  13. Jay Well-Known ReefKeeper

    333
    Marion
    Ratings:
    +2 / 0 / -0
    temp-right now 82.4 halides are on
    What is your tank temp when the halides are off? I have heard many stories of temp swings bringing RTN on....
     
  14. fishyness

    fishyness Inactive User

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    Ill have to check when I get home. Also I just thought of something else. We recently (last week) cut egg crate for the top and took off the glass. I'll bet that caused a temp swing. I just never thought of acclimating them to that.[​IMG]
     
  15. fishyness

    fishyness Inactive User

    596
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    That just made me think of something, last week we cut egg crate and took off the glass tops. I never thought to acclimate them to that. If there is any consolation, they are CCGC from Dr.s and still under warranty so I get credit if they dont make it.[​IMG]
     
  16. ransomed4ever

    ransomed4ever Inactive User

    91
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    +0 / 0 / -0
    I keep my tank around 1.023-1.024, and have no ill effects from it at all. If you've seen Ching Chi's tank on reefcentral you'll see that its amazing, and I believe he keeps his salintiy at 1.023 as well. Best bet is the ich meds, they may not have copper, but there are all sorts of other things in them that we just don't know how they affect corals.
    SPS can just be tricky too. I've brought some home from thesame tank before and one will thrive and another won't make it. I've even had frags that I've fragged off of the same coral do the same, one rtn's and the other grows like crazy.
     
  17. ninjazx777 Experienced Reefkeeper

    Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +7 / 1 / -0
    It's ich attack I tried it a year ago and it wiped out almost all of my corals. Run a lot of carbon and do large water changes every two days for at least 2 weeks to get that crap out of your tank
     
  18. fishyness

    fishyness Inactive User

    596
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    +5 / 0 / -0
    ok thanks will do
     
  19. Greenonion

    Greenonion

    280
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0 / -0
    btw, if you do use the phosquard (little white pellets) make sure you rinse it really well in R/O water before you put it in your tank. its been known to release aluminum as a by-product of the reactions and from the dust. phos-ban or rowa phosremover are two products to look into.
     
  20. fishyness

    fishyness Inactive User

    596
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    Whew!!! ok DT torn down, looks like crap, fish in a 10g with hypo. 1.010 is what was recommended on RC. No scolding on the 10g please, I chose it for easier water changes if need be. I have a penguin 200 on it seeded with filter floss from another established tank, FW, but should that matter? Anyways Ill keep an eye on ammonia. 6-8 weeks fallow? Wonder why I thought 12-14, but Ill deal with it to not have this again. Would anyone be interested in a marine betta (comet). Right now he's in hypo with the rest although he never showed any signs of ich. Really cheap for a club member, although reef-safe, they are known to eat small fish and inverts but my cleaners are ok. I just worry he doesnt get enough to eat and would be better in a FOWLR which is what I had him in before I went reef. Any other helpful hints for me and my situation? thanks!![​IMG]
    BTW the 10 g will be a QT after this.
    yep, another one learned the hard way....
     

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