Help I HAVE HAIR ALAGE

I would say you don't have your lights on very long... I think 12 hr photo period is pretty common. Depending on how wide spread the algae is your test could be reading a false lower reading do to the algae using those chemicals to grow. The best advice always seems to be step up water changes and have some livestock that will eat it.

 

I was able to get rid of it by cutting down photo period, don't over feed and regular water changes.

 

You should grab a snickers and hang on for a pretty long ride. This will not be an easy fix. If your not running ro/di water you should probably stop changing water until you can get ro/di water. If you have ro/di make sure to check your filters and your tds. Check your flow in the tank, also check the ages of your bulbs. If your bulbs are over 10-12 months old your probably just feeding the cause. Start SLOWLY with the phosban, if you bomb the hell out of it thinking it will just disappear in a day you'll probably come home to a tank full of dead or dying corals. If you can hand pick the algae off the rocks weekly. How old is your rock?

 

Yup... Check RO water and bulbs... thats usually the first souurce. It also helps to have livestock that eat it.

 

I do weekly water changes. Won't hurt a thing. As with any nuisance algae you'll want to deal with the source. Some folks say that Mexican turbo snails will eat it, but I've heard mixed reviews. I'd start with the basics and stepping up the water changes will help.

 

Tony, listen to Jason's (Glaspie69) advice it is dead on and has been given over and over with success including myself.
 A few other notes:
You should have a good cleanup crew. Nothing is going to solve the problem by eating it at this point but it will help after you get the root of the problem fixed for the future. If you don't have them you need a good cleanup crew of Astrea Snails and Blue leg hermits. These are just my preference others will do as well. Tangs , yellow especially love to nip at hair algae and emerald crabs will help a bunch as well. But as Jason said this will be a long ride, but you will win following this advice.
I want to stress, test your RO/DI for TDS, is it 0? You said Nitrates and Phosphates are low but you didn't give readings, some people think their readings are low but don't realize how low is low in a reef tank. For instance, PO4 should be at or below .05 not .5. But like Jason said don't lower it too fast with a boatload of GFO. Things always should be gradual in a reef tank.
Your photo period is fine. You can go longer but most find 12 hours too long. Turning off the lights for a maximum of three days has been known to cut it back but it won't fix the problem. If you have 2 month old Phoenix bulbs they are not the problem unless one is bad. But then you would probabally see more of a problem on one side.
Weekly water changes are fine, but the reason and percentage is important. The question is what are you trying to accomplish with water changes?? If we find that your Nitrates or PO4 is high then yes water changes will definately help. And at this point it is mathematics, if you have a Nitrate level of 20 and you change 50% of the water with water of 0 Nitrate your levels will be 10. But generally 50% is way too high unless you are in catastrophe, which you aren't yet. So 20-30% every two-three days or so is about maximum to correct a problem. Use the math to determine your effect.
In short - TDS - Nitrate and PO4. After we know this we can recommend a more direct solution.

 

Check your magnesium levels as well as what Jason and Joel said. If you keep your mag levels up high you'll see a considerably favorable affect on your H.A.

 

I don't have any proof but I think turbo snails eat it. (the big ones)

 

OK Tony, a little now and more when I have so more time. Your problems are right there in what you typed. TDS, PO4 and Nitrates are all very high. So here we go:
1. No need to do a water change until you replace your DI resin and get TDS back to 0. You will just be putting Nitrates and PO4 back in your tank. You can test your fresh mixed water to see how high if you like. Don't put the TDS meter in there though. So #1 is get the resin replaced and make sure you are at 0.
2. Once you can mix good salt water then start the water changes.
3. Get a GFO reactor and start running it to help bring down PO4.
4. Water changes with good water to bring down Nitrates. Remember the math and don't do too large of water changes, this needs to be gradual over weeks not days.
More later ....

 

Fox face rabbitfish, lawnmower blenny and mexican turbo snails are the best eaters i have found in that order for hair algae. With the fish make sure when the algae is gone to supplement with a good veggie diet. Unlike snails they cant get as much algae off the glass and rock work for adequate nutrition.

 

On the birdsnest, if it is turning white from the bottom up you may be too late. But you should try cutting it above the dying portion to get it stopped. The white portion will never come back so you won't be losing anything.
No 15-20 hermits is not near enough IMO. I should have near 100 and 25 Astreas in my 90. Get more! There is a group order being put together for Fall Fest and I know you are coming to that. ;0)
If you are dosing any ca, stop. What is your Alk at?

 

Order a refillable cartridge if you don't already have one. Then you can just buy DI resin and save money by refilling yourself. You might also consider an in-line TDS meter so you can constantly be testing TDS.
Use a pair of dikes or something similar to cut the frag. AT this  point anything you can find, even pliers and break it above the dying tissue. Make sure to get above ALL of it.