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72g Bowfront Fowlr
Last Post 02/22/2012 08:29 PM by torino06. 59 Replies.
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Posts/Points: 203/251
iadubber


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12/15/2011 08:24 AM
    Well, I'm here, I'm an Iowan and I want to get into marine fish. I want to start with a FOWLR in my 72 gallon bowfront.

       The more I read the more confused I get on sump setups, if I need one, etc. I don't like HOB items. I had a Marineland emperor 400 HOB filter and I hated it. I like to have the tank as close to the wall as possible so I replaced it with a FluVal 405 and bought and inline Hydor heater for it. I like how clean it looks now. I'd like to keep it that way if I can when switching to FOWLR.

       I have read so many conflicting things as in a sump isn't necessary if you can live with a HOB skimmer and at least 3 power heads. True? Untrue? 

       I've never drilled glass before and I'm a bit touchy about the though of it. Are there other options for overflows that don't require drilling the glass that are flood safe?


    Here's a pic as it sits now. I am picking up a 55 gallon with stand Saturday from ThyRaven to rehome these fish in.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/chadha...6490404861

      So I guess my initial questions are above. I am somewhat on a budget for this so I'd love recommendations on

    HOB Skimmers that are quiet and can also be used in a sump if I go that route
    PowerHeads

    If I go with a 20g long sump, what return pump and options for overflow setups that are flood resistant in case of power outage?

      Sorry for all the questions, just don't know where to start even after researching for 2 weeks straight.
    West Des Moines, IA
    Veteran Member
    Posts/Points: 1445/1705
    Floyd R...Turbos Aquatics!


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    12/15/2011 10:10 AM
    As far as sump vs no sump, a sump give you flexibility to select or add various forms of filtration and helps you maintain a constant water level in the display tank, as well as adding water volume which adds stability. As far as flood protection goes, there really is only one that I consider to be close to failsafe and that's the BeanAnimal system http://www.beananimal.com/projects/...ystem.aspx which has an extremely long thread on RC.

    As far as filter systems, you can go many routes there. I prefer the Algae Scrubber http://www.algaescrubber.net/forums/ and I run a thread on RC on this as well http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/s...?t=1977420 (see posts 2001-2010 for a summary)

    That reading should keep you busy for a few more weeks...sorry...
    - Bud

    Formerly "Floyd R Turbo"
    I maintain a 144 Reef, a 125 FOWLR and a 180 FOWLR for customers.
    Currently babysitting a 125 compressed into a 37.
    Custom Acrylic Fabrication needs? Contact me via PM.
    See my projects in the Commercial Members & Club Sponsors forum
    Sign up for information on Algae Scrubbers!
    Average
    Posts/Points: 203/251
    iadubber


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    12/15/2011 12:57 PM
    Thanks Turbo! I have decided on a few things today

    1. I will do a sump (whether a premade acrylic or 20g diy is up in the air)
    2. I plan to do a glass-holes 700gph overflow kit
    3. Submersed Mag-Drive 9.5 with a ball valve to control output
    4. Two Korilia 750s to start
    5. Unknown skimmer at this time. Try to find one here used preferably after I get a sump to make sure the skimmer will fit
    6. A cheap T5 solution http://www.aquatraders.com/48-inch-.../52305.htm unless a used one is found here
    7. unsure on heater yet
    8. Ebay Refractometer
    9. Paint the back glass black
    10. Pump return http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produ...atid=14680
    Is there a better solution to return plumbing? Two outlets?
    11. RO/DI unit from ebay or amazon with two 32 gallon brute trashcans for holding tanks.
    12. Substrate: Not sure yet. Planned on pool filter sand but have been reading that will not be the best solution. 
    13. I won't be able to afford to fill this thing with cured live rock. Is there a good ratio of dry and live that will get me the best results?
    Newbie
    Posts/Points: 62/78
    Bennyboy515


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    12/15/2011 04:36 PM
    you can use a lockline y if you want and spit you flow two different ways. If i were you i would buy a device triangular in shape sorry can't think of the name but will find out it is 40 dollars. Your return pump runs into it and from there one line comes off each side. It is a switch that runs off water, making it go from one return to the other every 7 seconds, acting as a wave maker!
    Average
    Posts/Points: 203/251
    iadubber


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    12/15/2011 05:14 PM
    thanks Benny, I'll definitely get the lockline. I'll have to hit you up for how to get it to look good entering the tank when the time comes. This build is going to have to be about 6 months for me to get everything I want unless I get some smoking deals here! It'll start slowly next weekend. I've got a girl #2 on the way March 1st so that's going to take some funding away for sure. I like that current switcher you pm'd me about. I think that'll work pretty slick.
    Marshalltown
    Advanced Member
    Posts/Points: 865/997
    Sponge


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    12/15/2011 11:27 PM
    Check this out for an overflow box...I use one on my 135g

    http://www.lifereef.com/siphon.html
    Average
    Posts/Points: 203/251
    iadubber


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    12/16/2011 05:43 AM
    Posted By Sponge on 12/16/2011 12:27 AM
    Check this out for an overflow box...I use one on my 135g

    http://www.lifereef.com/siphon.html

    Looks nice, but I don't want anything HOB or siphon.
    Average
    Posts/Points: 203/251
    iadubber


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    12/20/2011 09:09 AM
    Just ordered Glass-Holes overflow and return kit and got my membership here!
    Average
    Posts/Points: 203/251
    iadubber


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    12/22/2011 12:48 PM
    I'm getting my 700 gph glass holes overflow and return kit tomorrow in the mail. So I will probably be drilling the tank this weekend. I ordered the 3/4" loc-line return kit. I wanted to put the overflow box on the back left. I was wondering what my best option is for the return line. An obvious spot would be the right side, but what if I ever wanted to add another 700 gph overflow?

    Should I put the return in the middle of the tank and then I have the option to use a Y loc-line fitting to make two outputs? Or should I just stick with make the return on the right side of the tank? thanks
    Average
    Posts/Points: 203/251
    iadubber


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    12/24/2011 01:43 PM
    Posted By iadubber on 12/22/2011 01:48 PM
    I'm getting my 700 gph glass holes overflow and return kit tomorrow in the mail. So I will probably be drilling the tank this weekend. I ordered the 3/4" loc-line return kit. I wanted to put the overflow box on the back left. I was wondering what my best option is for the return line. An obvious spot would be the right side, but what if I ever wanted to add another 700 gph overflow?

    Should I put the return in the middle of the tank and then I have the option to use a Y loc-line fitting to make two outputs? Or should I just stick with make the return on the right side of the tank? thanks

    Well since nobody wanted to chime in I just put them where I wanted.

    Finished drilling it today:

    IMG_0874

    IMG_0873

    IMG_0872

    IMG_0870

    IMG_0869

    Average
    Posts/Points: 203/251
    iadubber


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    12/26/2011 04:01 PM
    I picked up two powerheads, 20 gallon long for my sump, and some rock.

    Also ordered 40lbs of sand and 50 pounds of rock from reefrocks.net.

    Last order of the day was for a CadLights TIA-1150 2nd Generation Conic skimmer
    Cedar Rapids
    Veteran Member
    Posts/Points: 903/1057
    blackx-runner


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    12/26/2011 04:45 PM
    looks like you're moving right along on the build. Good luck and keep us updated.
    Current project - 250 gallon marineland deep dimension
    Average
    Posts/Points: 203/251
    iadubber


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    12/27/2011 07:19 AM
    I'm looking for some sump advice.

    Here's my basic drawing. I am waiting to see what the proper depth for my skimmer is yet. I can't seem to find it on the internet so I'm waiting for Cadlights sales to get back to me. For temporary sake, I used 9" for skimmer depth.

    My main question I can't seem to find a solid answer on is how deep to make the return pump chamber. I read about making sure you have 24-48 hours of depth for evaporation. Is 7" too deep? Too shallow? Can I fab a top to reduce evaporation that covers the right 3/4 of the sump? At this time I don't plan to do a fuge.

    sump
    Average
    Posts/Points: 203/251
    iadubber


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    12/27/2011 01:13 PM
    Ok I have a new drawing.

    sump

    I got the skimmer specs and it's operational depth is 8". So I'm thinking of making the chamber 10" and make a 2" riser. 1" between bubble trap baffles and 8" deep return section. That leaves me about 8 gallons of overflow return if the power goes out. Should I make the return section baffle deeper? I only want to do this once. The piece of acrylic is $40 and I'd rather not waste redoing.
    Cedar Rapids
    Veteran Member
    Posts/Points: 903/1057
    blackx-runner


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    12/27/2011 04:19 PM
    looks good. Just make sure you have plenty of room for the skimmer and the drain line(s) in the first chamber. Is this all going in the stand? If so you also need to be sure you have enough height in the stand to accommodate the 2" riser for your skimmer and still get the collection cup off easily.
    Have you considered a refugium at all? Something else you may want to consider before making things permanent.
    Current project - 250 gallon marineland deep dimension
    Average
    Posts/Points: 203/251
    iadubber


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    12/27/2011 05:56 PM
    Posted By blackx-runner on 12/27/2011 05:19 PM
    looks good. Just make sure you have plenty of room for the skimmer and the drain line(s) in the first chamber. Is this all going in the stand? If so you also need to be sure you have enough height in the stand to accommodate the 2" riser for your skimmer and still get the collection cup off easily.
    Have you considered a refugium at all? Something else you may want to consider before making things permanent.

    I definitely won't silicone until I get my skimmer in.

    Yes it's going in a stand. The skimmer is 19" tall and I have about 25" under my stand. The skimmer needs 1" of clearance for cup removal so I should be good. I will be plumbing a T fitting off the return pump with a pipe that goes back to the skimmer chamber to help divert too much flow.

    No fuge for me right now.

    I got all my baffles cut today. I leak tested the 20 long and it holds water. So hopefully I can find a return pump by next week and get some water going in the tank.
    Average
    Posts/Points: 203/251
    iadubber


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    12/28/2011 01:20 PM
    Today ordered the following

    2 Jager trutemp 150w heaters
    2 magfloats
    1 API Master Saltwater Test kit
    1 Quiet One 3000 return pump
    1 gravel vac

    Also picked up all my plumbing supplies. The sump is ready to be siliconed. I water tested it lastnight.

    Should be up and running next week if I can get a ro/di unit soon!
    Creston
    Advanced Member
    Posts/Points: 665/811
    iaJim


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    12/28/2011 02:07 PM
    I'd cancel the gravel van if you still can. It's not such a good idea to disturb the substrate in a marine aquarium.
    Creston
    Advanced Member
    Posts/Points: 665/811
    iaJim


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    12/28/2011 02:07 PM
    *vac*
    Average
    Posts/Points: 203/251
    iadubber


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    12/28/2011 09:07 PM
    Vac will be used on my freshwater
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