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How to get rid of dinoflagellates?

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Kylie, Jun 6, 2010.

  1. Kylie

    Kylie Inactive User

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    Despite my best efforts, the stupid things managed to infest my new tank from the transfer and now i have another very heavy infestation of dinoflagellates. Does anyone know much about this and how to get rid of them? Any help would be much appreciated bc the crud is constantly climbing on my corals and is causing die off. Grrrr
     
  2. Shaun

    Shaun Inactive User

    711
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    Black out for 48 hours, run a uv sterilizer. And talk to Fishbrain, I think he delt with those before, Shaun
     
  3. F.D. Reefer Well-Known ReefKeeper

    506
    Fort dodge
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    +98 / 1 / -0
    Carbon, was the answer for me. if u not running it start.
     
  4. FishBrain Expert Reefkeeper GIRS Member

    New London
    Ratings:
    +397 / 6 / -0
    48 hour blackout will weaken them and give your good bactera a chance to get the upper hand. Increase your alk to 10dkh and try to keep your ph up. Do you have a reactor? It's my understanding that when they die it releases toxins into the water colum so you realy need to run carbon and change it every other day tell they are gone. No water changes tell the problem is cleared up because the dinos seem to feed off the trace elaments in the fresh mix. Do they seem to die off at night and reapear during the day?
     
  5. Kylie

    Kylie Inactive User

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    They die off a little but then come back thicker. And when I use a pipette to clean off my corals and rock (I don't even try with the sand its so thick) its back within a couple hours. I have a dual BRS reactor for phosphate and carbon and have plenty of carbon. How do I raise my pH and dKh? I'll do a water test later this afternoon after all of our errands are run to give you a better idea of where I'm at. Last time I checked my pH was 8.0 and dKh was 7 but that was a few weeks ago unfortunately.

    I also have access to hot magnums, they are external filters that have micron filters in them that suck up anything floating around in the water, so long as you keep it stirred up. During my 48hr blackout, could this help to suck up the dino's if I get them off the rocks and into the water? Maybe even the sand too?

    Thanks for the speedy replies everyone!
     
  6. daalbers

    daalbers Well-Known ReefKeeper

    562
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    +24 / 3 / -0
    i have had this in past i understood it as you need to have no light for 72 hours which is what i did and it worked great the key is no light at all i put a sheat over mine worked great allso  wouldnt be a bad idea to run hot magnum with carbon but make sure it is good grade carbon or D-D RP-25 ROWAphos Phosphate Removal is a good product to run
     
  7. rc1214b

    rc1214b

    256
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    Unfortunately this is probably from the tank transfer and the new tank not being completley stable. There are so many types of dinoflagellates it's hard to say what works for sure.. Raising ph/alk does help usually, i'm guessing the main problem is elevated p04/ no3.
    I would be hesitant to go dark for 48 hrs, I know many do this for all types of reasons and it's worked for some but you've got many other organisms that would like some light for photosynthisis. I would recommend reducing the photoperiod to 4 hrs or so. That should help limit the amount of light to fuel the outbreak while still allowing corals and other microfauna to flourish.
    Continue running your reactor and change out the carbon frequently as the dino's recede. I would not disturb the sandbed as that can add fuel to the fire. Do not baste the rocks, instead try to siphon out the mats if you want to try manual removal.
    You can use a bit of kalkwasser to keep the ph/alk elevated
     
  8. Kylie

    Kylie Inactive User

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    Just an update. So far I've had the tank on semi-blackout for about a day and a half. I have the lights set to turn on for four hours total (actinics for 4 hrs, mh less) during the day. I am just now drip adding the kalkwasser solution into my tank. My pH was 7.8 which surprised me a lot and my kH was 7, which was consistent with before. Does anybody happen to know exactly how much a 1 gallon solution of kalkwasser raises the pH/kH? It doesn't really say. I did the 1 teaspoon for 1 gallon and am drip adding it to a 40g breeder with a 29g sump so about 60g of water total in my system.

    And since my pH had been so low before, is this something I could be using routinely? Isn't your pH suppose to be more around 8-8.4?? Any info is welcome.

    Thanks
     
  9. Eric Experienced Reefkeeper

    West Des Moines, IA
    Ratings:
    +33 / 0 / -0
    Posted By Kylie on 06/11/2010 01:04 PM
    Just an update. So far I've had the tank on semi-blackout for about a day and a half. I have the lights set to turn on for four hours total (actinics for 4 hrs, mh less) during the day. I am just now drip adding the kalkwasser solution into my tank. My pH was 7.8 which surprised me a lot and my kH was 7, which was consistent with before. Does anybody happen to know exactly how much a 1 gallon solution of kalkwasser raises the pH/kH? It doesn't really say. I did the 1 teaspoon for 1 gallon and am drip adding it to a 40g breeder with a 29g sump so about 60g of water total in my system.
    And since my pH had been so low before, is this something I could be using routinely? Isn't your pH suppose to be more around 8-8.4?? Any info is welcome.
    Thanks
    Great questions - and you're right - all of the calculators mention the pH would be "substantially higher" with limewater but don't give an exact answer.
    Question-
    Where's your calcium level?  Limewater, while typically used to maintain CA levels, may not be the best way to correct both your pH and Alk @ the same time.
    Alk, CA, pH and Magnesium are all related to each other and often a low value can be attributed to a different low (or high) value for another variable.
    One way to increase Alk is with baking soda, although baking soda right from the box lowers ph.
    Google cooking baking soda before dosing - baking it before dosing will raise BOTH the pH AND the Alk which sounds like what you are looking to accomplish.
    I'm having my own issues buy am striving for a pH close to 8.5 and an Alk around 10 (8-12dkh is acceptible though 10+ can help with nuisance algaes/bacterias)
    -Eric
    *Edit* Limewater does increase pH & Alk but I've never run across a calculator for dosing that indicates the pH increase.
     
  10. Kylie

    Kylie Inactive User

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    sweet. thanks for the responce. I'll be sure to look that stuff up
     
  11. Kylie

    Kylie Inactive User

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    So far my ph is up from 7.8 to 8 and my kh from 7 to 8. Running the lights only 4 hrs per day. When do you think I should be seeing results? Is it bad to prolong the shortened photo period past a couple days? Once my ph n kh are up should i do a complete blackout? Keep in mind some of my corals seem really fragile either from the brown gunk growing on them or the toxins it releases.
     
  12. FishBrain Expert Reefkeeper GIRS Member

    New London
    Ratings:
    +397 / 6 / -0
    I have done 48 hour compleate blackouts but my corals were very helthy. I don't know if it is a good idea with the state of your corals. Have you ever thought of takeing all your corals out and maybe have someone hold them for you ( maybe take them to the store ) and then do a black out and some masive water changes to clean it up. Then when all is stable bring the coral back?
     
  13. Kylie

    Kylie Inactive User

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    I had thought of that before but the only way the dinoflagelates made it into my tank the first time was through the corals. I figured if I pawned them off, and even if I got rid of the dino's in the tank, anything on the corals would reinfect my tank, not to mention whoever's they were temporarily in.

    BUT I THINK IT WORKED!! YAY!! It took me quite a bit to finally get the kH and pH up. But today is the end of day 4 of the black out and its all gone!! I'm running a hot magnum on the tank and sucking up any debree I can that could possibly be dead/dying dino's or any crud thats in the tank that could be feeding it. The lights are still off but tomorrow morning will be the initial test when the lights turn on. It looks amazingly clear now but I'll be able to see better then. And the next week will hopefully prove amazing and hopefully nothing grows back!! YAY!

    Unfortunately, I did have a very sad causalty with the black out /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default//emoticons/sad.gif Everything made it except my oregon blue tort /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default//emoticons/sad.gif I'm very bummed out about that. I loved that coral. And it had been one of the few that were doing AMAZING despite the crud. Sads. Everything else is doing ok tho. Hopefully I'm on to a full recovery /DesktopModules/ActiveForums/themes/_default//emoticons/smile.gif
     
  14. FishBrain Expert Reefkeeper GIRS Member

    New London
    Ratings:
    +397 / 6 / -0
    Awesome glad to hear you are makeing progress. Sorry to hear about your tort.
     
  15. Kylie

    Kylie Inactive User

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    So, lights are back on for 4 hrs per day and I'll be slowly increasing from there. The dumb crud is starting to slowly grow back which makes me really sad. Its only a thin layer on the sand after two days of the lights being on but I'm 99% sure its the same stuff. I'm thinking about keeping the lights on 4 hrs per day since all of my light sensitive corals died anyway and getting a UV sterilizer. That way it will kill any spores flowing through the water as I try to constantly manually suck up the visible junk with the hot magnum. Good plan?? Any other suggestions? Fish have shown no problems with the gunk btw.
     
  16. Kylie

    Kylie Inactive User

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    Oh, and I'm overdue for a WC b/c of all this so I was thinking about doing a decently big one.. normally I do about 25-30% but I was thinking maybe a 40%?? Good idea? Bad Idea??
     
  17. mthomp

    mthomp Inactive User

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    kylie i read an artical that said something about them forming a symbyotic relationship with things like coral, clams and even zooplankton.

    when you setup your new tank, did you take any steps with your coral before you moved them from your old tank? It maybe wise to set your old tank back up and quarentine your coral and see if the dinos begin to grow there as well.
     
  18. Kylie

    Kylie Inactive User

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    I thoroughly rinsed each coral seperately before adding them to the new tank but thats all. And I don't have another tank anymore so the quaranteen idea won't work. I really hope thats not what's happening. Even if it was, the dino's shouldn't be killing my corals then. Instead, shouldn't my corals be happier than ever?
     
  19. mthomp

    mthomp Inactive User

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    . Others can become symbiotic photosynthetic organisms living inside corals, clams and other marine organisms (i.e., zooxanthallae).
    not all symbiotic relationships are good. what did you rinse with? did you use a coral dip or just ro water?
     
  20. Kylie

    Kylie Inactive User

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    Just RO water.

    So far the lights have been on a 4hr/day cycle for three days now and it seems not to be growing back as terribly as before. Only in a really high light area with medium flow next to my window. Hopefully then I seriously knocked out most of the population and if I keep at sucking up whatever I can, it will go away. Hopefully.
     

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