Here's todays water testing from my live rock curing tank.

pH       8.6
Am      1.0
N02     .2
N03   10
Alk      3.4

With N03, I did the low range side reading and to me it doesn't seem right why that one is so much higher than the rest.  I understand it to an extent, but should I be worried about it?  Once more growth occurs, will it eventually lower?

I did have a low powered light on the tank for a week, but brown stringy algae started to grow, so I haven't had the lights on since.

Your water looks like its still cycling. THere is probably some die off causing the Am spike

I ordered the live rock from petsolutions.  I ordered the two day delivery, but ended up being 5 days because the shipment missed the plane on thursday morning and instead of getting it on Friday, I got it Monday.  So I was a little nervous about how much longer it'd take to cycle.  It's been about 5 to 6 weeks now and I'm thinking it'll be the full time of 2 months in order to cycle.

Have you been doing water changes? Remember that is the only way to get rid of your Nitrates. If you have a lot of die off then they will be more important. When your Ammonia and Nitrites go to 0 your cycle is done. But nitrates have to be artificially removed, for the most part anyway.

You could always do a coil dinitrator...right Joel?

Actually I was thinking of paying $50 for the parts to build a coil denitrator and then waiting 6 weeks for it to cycle only to find out it is almost impossible to control. Then spending $400 on a commercial sulpher denitrator that works awesomely but then figure out this is actually even a simpler design and could have been built DIY for about 1/3 the price.

Ahhhh... reefing. A lesson learned is money well spent?

Probably not, but we're all in the same boat!

Hmmm, I can see not doing them early so as not to dilute the ammonia to get the cycle started. But IMO once nitrates start going up you should start water changes. What forum were you told this, not that that matters much. What are others opinions?

I can't find the exact posting.  But I was doing 10% water changes at the time.   Then when I was told to stop, I was thinking that the ammonia would turn into the nitrates and all the nitrates would be consumed by the growth until it would stabilize.

 

I would reccomend reading some articles on the Nitrate cycle. There are some good ones in Reef Keeper magazine on Reef Central. Here is one on about.com, although it is a freshwater cycle the conecpt is the same:
http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/biologicalcycle/a/nitrogencycle.htm
The cycle is Ammonia to Nitrite to Nitrate. The problem is that the bacteria that turn Nirate into Nitrogen gas that can leave our tanks are low in quantity in our tanks. The reason is that they are anaerobic or can only grow without oxygen. This is only the case in a deep sand bed and deep in our rock. But when you think about it, if there isn't oxygen how does the water get there to turn the Nitrate it contains into Nitrogen gas? It is a slow process and in the meantime our tanks collect Nitrates that really can only be removed with a phyical water changes or the devices we have been talking about. It is possible to use a Deep Sand bed in conjunction with macro alage in conjunction with mangroves and then even add some sugar. Those are the methods that are usually employed to reduce nitrates.

I am way off topic here sorry. The point is, at some point you want to get that nitrate out of the tank. I would imagine your only option (since your name is Noob and you don't have a denitrifier) is by using water changes. Just remeber, if you change 50% of the water and add water with 0 Nitrates then you will have reduced the nitrates by 50%. Change 50% in an hour again and you will have reduced it by 75%. You can continue to use this math to reduce the Nitrates.

Ammonia going down and Nitrite going up makes sense, that is the cycle. Nitrate should start increasing more then Nitrait will go down. When Ammonia and Nitrite are 0 the cycle is done. Nitrate going down now without water changes doesn't make sense IMO. I would be suspect of one of the tests. But it really isn't anything to worry about at this point. A nitrate reading of 10 isn't going to hurt anything unless you are starting with SPS Corals.

I've been learning a lot more lately that it's more of an art than science.  A lot of conflicting suggestions.  I know everyone has their own way, understandable.Â

I had some purple algae growing in spots here and there and some clayish colored bumbs, but it's been all over taken by this brownish/rust colored algae.



I have this Tetra Marine book from '79 that debates if live rock is good or bad for the aqauria with fish.

This is very true, everyone has an opion. That is why I tag many of my comments with IMO. I also agree there is a definate Art involved. But if you try to just obtain the art and don't learn the science you will be in trouble. I think any experienced aquarist would agree with that. I am not saying you are goign to try that just another "IMO".

There are many opinions about how to treat the rust colored algae you describe. First its not an algae at all, it called Cyano bacteria. There is differeing opinions on how to get rid of it but it is common and expected in new tanks and tanks that are cycling. So I wouldn't be concerned that you are doing anything wrong. The Cyno is caused by excess nutrient and/or old bulbs. Many will disagree about the lighting, but I have proven this to myself a few times. The first thing to controlling algae or Cyano is to get rid of the nutrients that cause them to grow i.e. Phospahtes and Nitrates.

Are you using RO/DI Water?

I would say that book is wayyy out dated.

Okay Mr. Copperfield, what card do I have in my hand?Â

You are right about the bulbs.  Because I'm using my old PC 260 watt to cure the rock until I can save enough for MH.  I've been using R/O Culligan water.

I have updated books, of course.  Tolluck, Sprung, Nano Reefs,  Corals, etc...  But I've also been getting books that I find around.  I love seeing how the technology and opinions changed as the hobby advanced.  There's one that says Batfish are easy to take care of and only need Tetra flakes to survive.

computer messed up, double posted it.

Do you have a Culligan RO or are you buying the water. If you have one are the filters good?

Oh, and you have a a Queen of Hearts.

I'm buying the water.  Eventually I'll get an R/O system.  But it's been a slow step by step process I've been doing.  I get items when I get the chance to get a good deal.  I got my 72 gallon bow front for 200 bucks with a bunch of extras.  Like a digital Miluakee pH tester.

I need to get my tank drilled or buy an overflow.  I'm going to call S.O.M.  because he said he would drill it if I take it up there, I just need to find out how much.  The tank I have two firefish in is a 30 gallon that I'm going to turn into a sump for the 72.  I got the firefish to help build my confidence, if they survived until the live rock has cured then I'd feel more comfortable taking the jump.  They've been going good for almost two months already.

You can usually find used RO/DI's cheap. It won't take buying much water to make the cost of a good used RO.

Last I heard Hung charged $20 per hole. There may others in your area that ill help you cut a hole. Make dang sure the glass is not tempered.